Thursday 1 May
Taxi to the
station, as it was raining, and really too far to walk with case &
backpack. Three-part journey, Maidstone East to London Victoria (about an hour,
used it to catch up with some emails) then to Clapham Junction, then a two hour leg to Sherborne. Even first class had someone in every bay, so I got to share with a lady who was born in
Sutton Coldfield, in Boldmere, which is practically next door to Sheila.
However Wendy has lived in Sydney for many years, and is just on a trip home to
see family members. She chatted for a
large part of the journey, so I did not get as much work done as I wanted. Then
another cab up to the Sherborne Hotel.
After
requesting a map, I headed down a long hill and found my way into town,
with the two-fold objective of checking the
Tourist Info and seeing the Abbey.
During the
walk I came across a sign for the Somerset & Dorset (S&D) FHS Research
Rooms, where I plan to be tomorrow, so that was useful.
My
taxi-driver had pointed out the old Almshouses, and said that they were
sometimes open, so when I saw them I checked the times, and it is three days a
week from 1 May (that would be today), from 2-4pm (currently 2.30), including
Thursdays (and just for a change, I am quite clear about what day of the week it is).
Sometimes I fluke things perfectly.
The original
almshouse foundation dated from 1406, and the current building from 1437. Apart
from organised group tours, the only part of it open to the public is the
chapel. There is a very old parish chest, roughly the same age as the one at
Ashford.
The altar piece is a triptych (three-panel
painting) which dates to about 1480, and is a national art treasure. It
survived the Reformation probably since it could be folded up and tucked away.
The almshouse itself survived the Dissolution in 1548 because it was governed
by a lay corporation, not a priest. They also have quite lovely mediaeval glass
in the South window. It is hard to look at a place like this and wonder just
what beautiful buildings and art did not survive. This is probably one of very
few almshouses which are still fulfilling their original function, and have
sheltered the old of the town for over 600 years. The house currently has 18
occupants, and a long waiting list.
From here it
is but a step around the corner to the Tourist Information Centre, where I
succumbed to temptation and bought a tea-towel. We actually already have enough of
these to use a different one every week for a year, but we do enjoy the
memories each one brings back. Also, naturally, I got a bookmark.
The S&D
rooms are open until 4 pm today, and the Abbey till 6, so I went off to
familiarise myself with the searchroom setup, and got shown around by Dorothy,
who was very knowledgeable and helpful, then sat with some of the parish records
for Ilminster and had a browse. Tomorrow I will have my laptop, and all my info
with me.
Finally, to
the Abbey. Saved at the Dissolution
because it had originally been the parish church. The outside is beautiful, and
much of the inside that is original is also amazing. The ceiling has been described as the best in
Europe, and it is certainly stunning. (Look it up on the internet, as I did not get any good photos of this.)
Entrance to South Aisle Chapel and baptistry, dedicated to St Mary le Bow
The Victorians did their usual job of ‘restoring
with improvements’, although to be fair, they probably saved many places from
going to ruin, even if I don’t much like what they did at times.
Blind interlaced Romanesque arcading in the Wykeham Chapel (c1140)
Reading: Agatha
Raisin & the Murderous Marriage
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